Aeroshell Wet Layups for Dummies
Hi! I'm Elizabeth (Maylin) Rawson, the 2023 Aeroshell lead. I created this to give a general overview of how the layup process works! This is aimed towards new members/people not on aeroshell to get them onboarded to the layup process.
Background
The 2022-2024 aeroshell is made up of 3 major parts:
Top shell
Bottom shell
Canopy
Materials
Composites are made of two materials: flexible fiber and a hard matrix. These combine to make a strong material.
Fiber (fabric)
Fiberglass: heavy and flexible
Our molds are made of this
Carbon Fiber: relatively strong for how lightweight it is
Our car is made of this
Kevlar: very strong, shatterproof and fireproof
Our canopy is made of this
Matrix (epoxy resin)
Resin is made from mixing one resin with a hardener according to the ratio specified on the resin packaging (typically a 5:1 ratio of resin to hardener)
When the two are mixed a chemical reaction occurs and the viscous liquid turns into a hard solid which reinforces the fabric
We have a limited time to work with this (this is called pot life) so work fast
We also use foam to reinforce the structure of the composite
Ply is the amount of layers of each fabric. The person in charge of the shift will tell you how much ply to do
Topshell is made of 2 ply of carbon fiber, a layer of foam, and 2 ply of carbon fiber
Bottom shell is made of 6 ply of carbon fiber
Canopy is made of 2 ply of carbon fiber and 2 ply of kevlar on the sides, and fiberglass on the very top dome
Safety Precautions
Wear a respirator because epoxy fumes are bad
LHR has communal respirators but if you are a germaphobe I recommend you buy your own. You need a respirator and filters
Wear gloves and your worst clothes to keep any epoxy from getting on yourself. It is very hard to get off
If you do get epoxy on yourself, use acetone to get it off. Use this very sparingly and wear a respirator when you are exposed to acetone.
Roles (Easiest to hardest)
Scrapers: scrape out excess epoxy and make sure the carbon fiber is flush to the surface of the mold
6-8 people
Bucket duty: mixes an adequate amount of epoxy and distributes it in a timely manner
2-3 people
Fabric duty: applies the fabric in the right area so there are no creases, tends to be more experienced members and/or people who cut the fabric
4-5 people
Overseers
1-2 people
Step-by-step guide
Pre-Layup
Mold prep: Aeroshell does this step to get the mold smooth. A smoother mold will result in better release of the composite from the mold!
Steps include sanding, filling in gaps, and then PVA/wax or frekote/wax
Cut fabric
When we cut and lay out the fabric, we want to orient the fabric alternating between 0 and 45 ply. This means that we will rotate it so the checkers are going horizontally and then diagonally. This makes our composite stronger
Apply yellow tacky tape around the very edge of the composite.
This will help create a vacuum seal for the composite so all of the air can be sucked out of it and it will end up smoothing the composite
Layup: We want to build up fabric and resin around in a loop, going from adjacent area to adjacent area. We want the composite to be as smooth as possible, with no air bubbles.
Use a scale mix resin and hardener according to the ratio specified on the resin
Depends on the brand so read the label
Apply epoxy to the mold with a paintbrush in the size of the carbon fiber piece you are about to lay down
Make sure the entire area is saturated with epoxy
Put the carbon fiber on the epoxied area and press it down very flat until it is flush with the mold
Apply more epoxy until every single bit of fabric is wet
We the fabric to be wet but apply epoxy moderately. We do not want to waste any.
Use a flat scraper to scrape out any excess epoxy from the fabric
Be gentle and firm at the same time.
Try to hold the fabric down taut with one hand so it doesn't move around.
Scrape with medium pressure and be conscious that you do not alter the weave of the fabric, we want to keep that nice checkerboard pattern.
Move excess epoxy into the next area we plan to add fabric on
Repeat this process
On all subsequent layers, tack down carbon fiber and let the resin from the prior layer soak in before you add excess resin. This prevents waste
Post-Layup:
After we finish applying resin and fabric, we need to let the resin cure. We put the composite in a vacuum, and pulling the air out compresses the composite to a smooth finish.
Apply peel ply (thin white opaque material) so that it covers the entire composite but doesn't overlap the tacky tape
Peel ply soaks up excess resin
Apply breather (fuzzy white fabric) so that it covers the entire composite but doesn't overlap the tacky tape
Breather ensures the air is sucked out evenly
Put the vacuum puck on the composite, preferably in a place without fabric or resin
Peel the covering off the tacky tape
Stick the vacuum bag (green transparent plastic) onto the tacky tape. Be very detailed on pressing these two together; we must eliminate every single air bubble and gap otherwise the vacuum is not going to pull.
Poke a hole in the vacuum bag over the puck so you can attach the external vacuum hose to the pump
Turn the vacuum on
Conclusion
Wet layups seem like repetitive manual labor, but it requires you to be conscious of what you are doing every step of the way. If you don't apply the right amount of resin, scrape too hard when scraping out resin, or forget to fully seal the vacuum bag, etc. the part will come out flawed. Please ask questions if you don't understand something! (especially to my members because this will challenge them and further their learning as well 😈)
Most importantly, remember to take breaks, drink water, and eat well. Your health is the number one priority. Layups are a lot of physical labor and they will tire you out
Hope to see you all there!